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Frequently asked questions - the German Shepherd |
Do GSDs make good family pets?
Yes! GSDs are naturally protective of their "pack". Young children
should never be left unattended with a puppy, however, if the
children learn to respect the puppy as a living being, the puppy
will be a wonderful companion for the children as they all grow up
together. Your dog's ranking in the "pack" should always be
established as the bottom (Omega) member below humans.
What traits are inherent in GSDs generally?
GSDs are natural herding dogs. Your GSD will try to "herd" you and
your family. Often they will "follow ahead", walking in front of
you and looking back to make sure you're going where you should.
Although the GSD is not used as frequently for herding in present
time, there are many breed lines still known for their herding. The
breed is naturally loyal, intelligent and protective (which makes
it good for police work). The GSD has an excellent nose, making it
good for tracking and search and rescue work. They are calm and
have a steady temperament when well-bred which is why they have
been used as "Seeing Eye" dogs. A GSD thrives on regular exercise,
mental stimulation and a well-balanced diet.
These traits make a GSD an absolute pleasure to own when
well-trained, but in the hands of a novice, unconcerned,
uncommitted owner, their intelligence and drive can become
difficult to manage.
Breeding plays an important role in the temperament of GSDs, so
selecting a reputable breeder concerned with both physical health
and the personality of their puppies is of utmost importance.
Different bloodlines exhibit traits differently, so question
breeders about the strong and weak traits of their bloodlines. See
the question on German versus American bloodlines about specific
general differences.
What should I look for in a GSD puppy?
Obviously, many factors affect the selection of the puppy,
including the personality and lifestyle of the prospective owner.
Avoid puppies that appear too shy or nervous. Puppies at an age
where they can be sent home with their new owners should be
inquisitive and curious. GSD pups generally lengthen along the back
and loin rather than get shorter. Look for balance in angulation,
especially in the hind quarters as an imbalanced pup may never grow
into the correct angulation. Meet both sire and dam if possible
since character is very important. The puppies' parents should be
OFA certified (preferably "Good" or "Excellent") (US dogs), OVC
certified (Canadian dogs) or certified "a-normal" (German dogs).
Make sure you see the parents' certifications. Hip problems can be
devastating.
The OFA is the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals. When potential
breeding stock reaches the age of 2, the breeder should have a set
of x-rays taken and submit them to the OFA for certification. OFA
will return a certification (Excellent, Good, or Fair) along with a
certification number for the dog. (Dysplastic dogs will not be
given a certification number.) (German certification is done over 1
year of age.) For information on German certifications, see the
section on German Pedigrees, Working Titles and Certifications.
More information on OFA can be found in the health and medical FAQs
in rec.pets.dogs.info. Statistics regarding the GSD and OFA
information can be found in the section on OFA Information and
Statistics. Watch as the puppies move about. If you are
inexperienced with GSDs, do not pick the "bully" of the litter.
Watch the puppies interact with each other in the litter as well as
with you and your family members. Watch the puppies you are
considering interact with you without the rest of the litter
present. Look for a friendly puppy who is not afraid, but also
allows you to handle it without a lot of struggle. Bloodlines will
make a difference in the working drive of the dog. German lines
tend to be more dominant than American lines as discussed a few
questions down.
Ask to look through the puppy's pedigree. Look for obedience
titles, conformation titles, hip certifications and make sure that
common ancestors are at least 3 generations back. If you don't
understand something, ask the breeder! Most of all, select a puppy
that feels comfortable with your family. Reputable breeders will
also make suggestions to insure their puppies go to happy,
well-chosen homes.
You can also ask if the puppies have been temperament tested and
look at the results. "The Art of Raising a Puppy" by the Monks of
New Skete (see Bibliography) details temperament testing and puppy
selection.
Elbow certifications as well as hip certifications are becoming
more common. As with hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia can only be
diagnosed by radiograph.
Also check out the breeding information found at
http://www.cluebus.com/holly/breeder.html about specific questions
to ask (and to be asked).
Can my breeder guarantee my puppy will not have hip problems?
NO! Hip dysplasia is considered to be polygenic. That means that
it's caused by a combination of genes that may not show up in any
litter previously. No matter the certifications in the pedigree it
is possible that your puppy could be predisposed to hip dysplasia.
That's why preliminary hip x-rays after 6 months are a good idea.
Treatments (both surgical and drug) can be done early to alleviate
problems down the line. If in doubt, find an orthopedic specialist.
Be wary of a breeder that says their puppies will definitely not
have hip problems.
But, a responsible breeder will guarantee their puppies for life.
The guarantee may vary. Some breeders will require you to return
the puppy for a replacement; some will refund all or part of your
money; some will not require you to return the puppy, but still
offer a replacement or refund. Do not be dismayed at a requirement
for a return of a puppy. A puppy may be in severe pain and an owner
may not be emotionally prepared to put a puppy down who really
should be put down. A responsible breeder will want what's best for
the puppy/dog.
Should I get a male or female?
This is an age-old question and almost strictly a matter of
preference. Some people will say that males are more "location"
protective while females are more "pack" protective. Males are
generally more territorial, so unless training steps are
consistent, marking could be a problem. (Neutering may help
alleviate this problem. Any dog not intended for a breeding program
should be neutered or spayed. Besides eliminating the possibility
of unwanted puppies and reducing some undesireable behaviors, it's
considerably healthier for your dog since it eliminates or severely
reduces the chance of testicular or mammary cancers. Breeding
should *never* be taken lightly.)
How old should my puppy be before I take it home?
Puppies are weaned from their mothers by about 6 weeks of age, but
the period following weaning is very important in terms of learning
"pack" behavior. Although 8 weeks is old enough and a common age
for leaving the litter, 10 weeks is probably optimum for a GSD.
However, better to take the puppy at 8 weeks if the rest of the
litter have already gone to their homes. Puppies up to 12 weeks old
should pose no additional concerns. After 12 weeks old, make sure
the breeder has taken special care to socialize the puppy (puppies)
with other dogs and people.
How big will my GSD be?
The full adult size of your GSD will depend in large part on the
genetic background of its parents. The AKC Standard states that
adult males should range between 24-26" at the shoulder blade,
females from 22-24". Males within the standard may weigh anywhere
from 65-90 lbs. depending on their bloodlines. Females may weigh
anywhere from 55-80 lbs. (Again, much depends on the genetics and
bloodlines. The above are only a rough idea.) Although your pup
will reach close to adult height by 10-18 months, s/he will
continue to fill out until up to 3 years old.
Be wary of breeders who emphasize "oversize", "huge", "big-boned"
breeding stock or puppies. Bigger is not better in German
Shepherds. The German Shepherd is not built to have a skeletal and
muscular structure of an oversize breed. An inch or so out of
standard may be acceptable providing the general line is not
consistently out of standard. A responsible breeder will offset an
oversize dog by breeding with a line that is a bit smaller in order
to maintain the standards as closely as possible.
What is "socializing" and why is it so important?
Socializing refers to exposing your puppy to a variety of
experiences, including meeting lots of people of various ages,
races, sizes and both sexes as well as teaching them how to
acceptably interact with other dogs. Puppy kindergarten classes
provide an excellent opportunity for socialization in a controlled
environment.
Socializing is important because it helps strengthen your dog's
confidence and reduces the chance that your dog will become shy or
fearful. Fearful dogs can become fear aggressive or fear biters.
When will my GSD puppy's ears stand?
Although some puppies' ears stand as early as 8-10 weeks, don't be
concerned if your pup's ears don't stand until 6-7 months
(especially pups with large ears) after teething. Some pups ears
never stand. This is known as a "soft ear". Sometimes taping is
successful. "Soft ears" are a genetic trait, and dogs with soft
ears should not be bred even if taping is successful. It is a
disqualification in showing. Some GSDs ears stand but wiggle at the
tips when the dogs run. This is known as "friendly ears". Friendly
ears are not a disqualification but are not a desirable trait.
One method of "taping" ears is to take a pink foam roller and
attach it with eyelash glue to the inside of the ear (the pinna).
Do not block the ear canal. Taping may take up to 2 months. But
again, be cautious about considering breeding a dog whose ears have
had to be taped.
What precautions should I take with my GSD puppy?
Other than the normal precautions of immunizations (see the new
puppy FAQ at
http://www.zmall.com/pettalk/dog-faqs/new-puppy.html#health),
beware of a fast-growing puppy. There are studies that show a
correlation between fast growth and hip dysplasia (if your pup is
predisposed to HD). You may want to switch your puppy over to adult
food if it seems to be growing very quickly (see also Your New GSD
at Home).
Don't pet your puppy's ears backwards before they stand. Although
people often do this by nature, it can damage the cartilege in your
pup's ears which can affect the ear carriage.
When your puppy is about 6 months old, have preliminary x-rays done
of your puppy's hips. If your pup shows signs of dysplasia, there
are treatment alternatives available to younger dogs that are not
available if the dog is older and has arthritic changes. If
detected early, there are things you can do for your dog to give it
a happy, healthy life even with dysplasia. If your pup shows mild
signs, consider having another set of x-rays taken after your dog
turns 2. Orthopedic changes (both positive and negative) can take
place up to this time.
Under NO circumstances should a dog with any sign of hip dysplasia
be bred. Breeding stock should be certified with the Orthopedic
Foundation for Animals before breeding. OFA will certify dogs over
2 years of age. You are strongly urged to not buy a puppy from a
breeder who does not have OFA certificates on their breeding stock.
Do not accept a breeder who says "Oh, my vet checked them and
they're fine." There are many subtleties in dysplasia that a vet
not trained in orthopedics may miss.
Do take your puppy to puppy kindergarten and obedience training
classes and do your homework for these classes. Behaviors that are
cute in a 15 pound puppy can be dangerous in a 75 pound adult.
Socialize your puppy with people (especially children) and other
dogs frequently (after your puppy has completed its immunization
series sometime after 16 weeks old).
Your puppy may go through a period known as "adolescent shyness"
when it reaches 4-5 months of age. This period can last until the
pup is 12-18 months old. Socializing your puppy from an early age
will help minimize this shyness. Expose your puppy to a variety of
experiences, but do so gently. You don't want to traumatize your
puppy.
Be careful of heavy physical exertion directly before and after
eating, especially if your GSD is a "gulper". GSDs (and many other
breeds) can suffer from bloat. If your dog's abdomen becomes
distended and rigid and it can not seem to belch or pass gas,
gastric torsion may be the problem. (The stomach twists.) This is
an immediate health concern and you should contact your vet or an
emergency clinic.
When should I switch my puppy to adult food?
Individual puppies and bloodlines will vary. You probably are best
off discussing your puppy's growth and needs with both your vet and
your breeder. Many breeders and dog food manufacturers advise
switching to a high quality adult food at four to six months of
age. As long as you are feeding a high quality food, this has no
ill effect on the puppy and is probably a good idea. Check out the
content of the food closely. A puppy or dog with average activity
should have about 26% protein and 15-18% fat. Look for some kind of
meat to be the first ingredient, not a grain product. Don't
overlook feed stores as a good place to buy dog food. Often prices
are less than at pet supply stores. (Please don't patronize pet
stores that sell puppies. Pet stores are in the business of making
money, not breeding responsibly.)
Offhand, if your puppy is growing very quickly, you might want to
ask your vet about switching to adult food even as early as 12
weeks. Studies have shown that puppies growing quickly may
exacerbate a prediliction to hip dysplasia. Otherwise, you can
consider switching any time after 10-18 months depending on the
dog.
Dry food is fine. You don't need to supplement with canned food.
It's expensive and doesn't provide anything a good dry food
doesn't. If your puppy doesn't want to eat the dry food, you can
moisten it slightly with warm water. (This may also reduce the risk
of bloat.
How often should I feed my puppy and how much?
Free-feeding versus scheduled feeding is another area in which
people disagree violently. Some breeds don't lend themselves well
to free feeding. German Shepherds, depending on the individual dog,
are often excellent at being free-fed without worry of over-eating
or becoming fat. (But you do need to keep an eye on your
puppy's/dog's weight. You should be able to feel the ribs under the
skin fairly easily.)
However, during housebreaking, it's usually a good idea to keep a
modified free-feed for a puppy so you can anticipate when they will
need to go out to potty. (Usually this is about 15-30 minutes after
eating, but it can be an amazing 4 hours or more with some
puppies.) Feed the puppy as much as it will eat before leaving the
bowl 3 times a day up until the puppy is moderately well
housebroken (4-5 months old). If you will be gone for long hours,
you may want to consider only leaving a small amount in the bowl in
the mornings after that time, but giving free access to food until
about an hour before bedtime until the puppy is completely
reliable. After that, the dog will have learned the family schedule
better and adjust its eating schedule accordingly. (Be aware,
however, that there will be times with every dog, no matter what
kind of feeding schedule, where the dog will need to go out during
the night to potty, or, if you're a late sleeper/worker, at least
by the time it's light out.)
Should you choose to schedule feed (and there's nothing wrong with
this), it's still better to feed at least a small amount of food
before leaving for the day. Often a dog that's hungry will vomit up
yellow bile. A small meal in the morning should keep this from
happening, but shouldn't cause the dog undue distress from needing
to relieve itself during the day. You can feed the dog its main
portion of food in the evening when you're home to walk it. For a
German Shepherd with an average activity level, 1 cup of food in
the morning followed by 3 cups in the evening should be about
right, but keep an eye on your dog's weight and adjust the food
accordingly.
Approximately the same rules apply to water. It won't do a puppy
any harm to have its water source removed about an hour before
bedtime and not have access to water until the morning. Fresh water
should be available with every meal. Once the dog is housebroken,
free access to water unless you will be gone for an extrodinarily
long period of time should not be a problem.
See the next section on bloat.
What is bloat (gastric torsion)?
Bloat (otherwise known as "gastric torsion") can be a problem with
any deep-chested breed like German Shepherds. The stomach twists so
nothing can pass through the esophagus to the stomach or through
the stomach to the intestions, causing gas to build up. This is an
immediate health concern where the dog should be taken to the vet
or emergency clinic. Signs of bloat include a distended rigid
abdomen, indications of vomiting with no results and inability to
belch or pass gas.
High activity directly before or after eating can exacerbate
bloating. Keeping the dog quiet at least one hour before and after
eating can help reduce the chances of bloat. Pre-moistening the
dog's food with water can also reduce the chances, however, without
the teeth-cleaning help of crunching food, you will want to take
especially good care of your dog's teeth by weekly tooth-brushing
and hard biscuits to help remove tartar. (Be sure to include any
treats you give in the balance of food intake. Too many treats may
cause your dog to gain weight, and treats only may not give the dog
the nutrition it needs.) Smaller meals can also reduce the risk of
bloat if you do not free-feed. (Free-fed dogs just need to have
their activity level watched, but do not usually eat enough at any
one sitting to cause problems. Bloat is more of a problem with a
dog that "gulps" its food which a free-fed dog won't usually do.
Don't leave pre-moistened food down for a free-fed dog too long as
it can breed bacteria. Instead, leave them smaller portions, but
refill more frequently.)
What is the life expectancy of a GSD?
Most lines of GSDs will live to between 10-13 years of age. 11-12
years is probably a very reasonable expectation. A GSD becomes
"middle-aged" between 5-7 years old, and is generally considered
"geriatric" at about 10. Their food intake and exercise and
nutrition needs may change over this period of time. They may begin
to develop stiffness in their joints (much like people do as they
get older). Healthy teeth are important as bacteria from decaying
teeth can affect the health of the dog.
There are some fairly distinct general
differences between the two lines, and there are some breeders
trying to breed for "the best of both worlds" by crossing American
lines with German. The best thing you can do is determine what you
want from your German Shepherd Dog and want to do with him/her, and
find a line and breeder that breeds for those traits in a
responsible manner.
German Shepherds from American lines are typically longer and
leaner than GSDs from German lines. Often GSDs from American
bloodlines are taller as well.
American GSD lines tend to have sharp angulation in the hind
quarters, more so than any other breed. This angulation allows them
to move seemingly without touching the ground. American lines tend
to be bred for elegance and nobility. A well-bred GSD from American
lines is calm, discriminating and intelligent: never fearful. They
are often less active and less dominant than their German
counterparts which can make them better pets for the potential
owner looking solely for a good companion, especially novice
owners.
To the negative side of GSDs from American lines, many lines lack
working ability or drive. If you're interested in any kind of work
or sport activity with your dog, look for a breeder who tests
working aptitude in their breeding stock. (Aptitude can be tested
separately from actually taking the dog to trials and competing in
events.) The AKC does not require breeding dogs be able to work or
have any titles.
Bad examples of German Shepherd type may appear spindly and
unbalanced when they move. Such poor movers can have trouble with
jumps and tight turns required in various sports. Some GSDs of this
type are nervous and spooky.
German line GSDs are generally stockier than their American
counterparts and more moderate in both structure and movement
without the severe angulation found in American lines. They may not
appear as graceful and dignified but instead have an air of
muscular agility. German lines typically produce high-energy,
high-intensity dogs.
German breeding stock is required to pass minimum standards for
both conformation and working ability, so dogs from German lines
rarely lacking intelligence. However, the dogs from some bloodlines
pass working tests by being aggressive and "sharp" without
discrimination which does not lead them to be good working dogs.
A poor-quality German-line German Shepherd may be too heavily built
for real agility and/or may have a temperament that isn't suitable
for any but the most experienced owner. Dominant aggression is more
likely to be found in these lines than fear aggression. Some
breeders breed for size and aggression rather than a well-rounded,
well-tempered dog.
Hip certification in Germany follows different rules and guidelines
than that of the OFA. Dogs are x-rayed at one year of age rather
than two years, and hips are rated "A-normal", "fast normal" or
"noch zugelassen". Hips rated NZ may not pass OFA certification.
Good examples of either German or American lines should be highly
intelligent, trainable and extremely loyal to their families. All
German Shepherds, regardless of their ancestry, should be bred for
good health and stable temperaments.
Both German and American lines have their passionate advocates, but
the decision of what bloodlines to purchase is ultimately a matter
of taste, need and expectations.
You will find fans of the American lines who will tell you that all
German dogs are ugly and brutally aggressive, and some lovers of
German lines would have you believe that American dogs are unsound,
stupid, and cowardly. Both of these extremes are exaggerated:
Healthy, mentally sound dogs can be found in either bloodline. The
most important thing is to find a good breeder whom you trust and
whose breeding stock (both the chosen sire and dam) fits your
lifestyle, regardless of style or registry.
If you are interested in showing your dog in the AKC conformation
ring with the intention of getting a championship, you are probably
better off looking at American lines. It will be difficult if not
impossible to win with a German Shepherd from German lines.
American (AKC) GSDs from responsible breeders are bred with an eye
to what the AKC breed standard demands and what AKC conformation
judges reward. A German line GSD may be beautiful but still won't
be right for the AKC show ring.
If you are more interested in competing in Schutzhund, training for
protection work, herding, or other working discipline, you may be
better getting a GSD from German lines. There are American dogs who
have the courage and drive, but their ancestors may not have
competed for the last 6 or 8 generations. All of the German dog's
ancestors have been selected for working ability, so you have a
greater chance of finding a suitable puppy without having to test
litter after litter. Also, since a breeder of German lines is more
likely to be involved in working disciplines, you will know someone
who can mentor you.
Given the above generalizations, choose the type more suitable to
your needs, lifestyle and abilities. If you do your "homework" in
researching breeders to find someone who is responsibly selecting
and testing their breeding stock to produce healthy, well-tempered
German Shepherds, you are far more likely to end up with a puppy
who fits your expectations more comfortably. Be totally open and
honest with your breeder in your desires so s/he can help you
select the right puppy for you. Any GSD physically and mentally
capable of the work should be able to be trained and compete
successfully in obedience, agility, tracking, herding and other
disciplines, and any well-bred GSD should make an excellent
companion.
Do German Shepherds shed a lot?
Yes. The GSD is a "double-coated" dog with an undercoat and guard
hairs. The guard hairs will be shed all year. The undercoat is
"blown" twice a year.
What about long-coated GSDs?
"The correct GSD coat is relatively short with an obvious
undercoat. As such it is quite waterproof. Some dogs are born with
long coats which usually, though not always, are devoid of
undercoat. Such coats are less useful and more difficult to groom,
but many pet owners seem to like the long-coated version. Thus
there is not strong selection against it, though very few breeders
would deliberately breed from long-coated stock. The normal coat is
dominant to the long version, so there are three kinds of dog:
normal, normal but carrying the long coat gene, and long. About 10%
of the pups are born long-coated."
This being said, if you don't intend to show your dog in
conformation, there's no reason to avoid the long-coated GSD.
Long-coated GSDs can and do compete in obedience and other working
disciplines. You should be aware, however, that the longer coat
does require more attention when grooming.
Are GSDs smart and easy to train?
Yes and no to both. Most GSDs are eager and willing to learn and
enjoy training sessions (don't overdo with a young pup - they just
don't have the attention span). If you start young and teach your
puppy its order in your "pack", problems with training will be
minimized. However, GSDs tend to have more dominant personalities
than some breeds and can be stubborn, so some care in training is
recommended. Classes are extremely beneficial. A GSD that thinks
it's the Alpha member of the pack can be a big handful.
My adolescent GSD is limping! What should I do?
Don't panic. You probably *do* want to take your pup into a vet
certified in orthopedic problems and reading x-rays just to make
sure you can eliminate hip and elbow dysplasia from the cause of
the problem. (Of course, that's true of all GSD puppies since early
diagnosis/treatment of dysplasia is important to your puppy's
healthy life even if you don't plan on breeding.) But... most
likely the vet will confirm that your pup has panosteitis, an
inflammation of the long bones in the legs of adolescent pups. It's
fairly common in GSDs. It's also known as "long bone disease",
"shifting leg lameness" and "growing pains". "Pano" can be detected
and diagnosed by x-ray.
Onset can be from 5-12 months (occasionally later) and last until
18 months or more. Though it is uncomfortable for the puppy, it
almost always grows out of it. The lameness need not be limited to
one leg. Pano is generally considered to be a polygenic trait with
limited heretibility (1).
What is a "gay tail"?
A GSD that carries its tail naturally higher than its body is said
to have a "gay tail". Many Northern breeds such as Samoyeds are
bred to carry their tails high. It is a fault in GSDs.
Why do GSDs have a reputation of being vicious?
In the 1950s, GSDs became the most popular dog in the AKC registry.
As a result, many breedings were made without regard to pedigree
history and inbreeding caused many personality problems. Reputable
breeders will usually not allow inbreeding at least 3 generations
back in the puppy's pedigree.
Inbreeding and linebreeding can be beneficial in a breeding program
if a breeder practices them carefully. Desireable traits can be
strengthened, but undesireable traits and faults may be brought
forth as well. If you notice inbreeding or linebreeding in the
pedigree, question the breeder as to why and what the perceived
advantages were. Breeders practicing these breedings should be able
to give reasonably educated answers as to why.
Why is a white GSD disqualified from the show ring in many clubs?
The GSD was bred and developed as a herding dog. A pure white coat
is not readily visible on snowy hillsides and sheep seem to respond
better to colored dogs. As a guard dog, white is too visible. Also,
top breeders have bred against a white color for a lengthy amount
of time, so the gene pool of white GSDs is very limited and
inbreeding can be a problem.
What is an average size litter?
An average size litter for a GSD is seven to eight puppies.
What is the difference between a GSD and an Alsatian?
There is no difference. After each of the World Wars, anything
German fell out of popular favor. To avoid the use of the word
German, "Alsatian" (from the Alsace-Lorraine area) was used. In
some countries, GSDs are still known as Alsations. The name in
Germany is Deustche Schaferhund which means "German Shepherd Dog".
The word "Dog" is part of the name.
Why is the word "dog" used in the breed name for GSDs and not for
other breeds?
The name in Germany is Deustche Schaferhund which means "German
Shepherd Dog". The word "Dog" is actually part of the breed's name
unlike other breeds.
What is Schutzhund?
Schutzhund is German for "protection dog", but it also refers to a
training discipline and dog sport involving 3 phases; obedience,
tracking and protection. It is supposed to be a fun experience for
both the dog and the handler. If it isn't for one or the other,
don't consider it. Find another activity. Schutzhund is not the be
all and end all of training. See the section on Schutzhund (often
notated as SchH) for more information. (Also, as of this writing, a
Schutzhund FAQ is being worked on by some of the subscribers to the
GSD-L mailing list. See the Resources for information on GSD-L.)
Is there a club for GSDs in the US or in my area?
Yes. You can get a packet of information on GSDs, information about
the United States national club and information on a local club (if
applicable) can be had by writing to the German Shepherd Dog Club
of America (address in Resources below). You may be able to find
out if there's a club in your country from this organization as
well.
You can also contact the United Schutzhund Club of America (USA)
(address in Resources below) to get information on GSDs in general,
about Schutzhund, about conformation shows and Schutzhund trials,
the Breed Registry and to find a Schutzhund club near you.
Canadians can contact the German Shepherd Dog Club of Canada.
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